Brewing In The Wild: Craft Beers Reflect Denali, Alaska

The following appears in the September issue of Alaska Sporting Journal:

BY TIFFANY HERRINGTON

Nestled in Alaska’s rugged wilderness, Denali Brewing Company is more than just a brewery; it’s a testament to adventure, craft, community and nature.

Founded by Sassan and Kristy Mossanen, what began as a passion project has grown into a beloved local institution. “Brewing in Alaska requires grit, perseverance, ingenuity and a passion for the craft,” says Sassan.

Their journey is one of resilience, creativity and a deep love for Alaska’s wild landscapes. In this Q&A, we explore the origins of Denali Brewing Company (907-733-2536; denalibrewing.com) and how Alaska’s untamed beauty shapes their brewing philosophy. Sassan Mossanen shares the couple’s story of moving to a remote area north of Talkeetna in 1996, where they lived as experiential education instructors and guides. This deep connection with nature influences every aspect of their brewing, from sourcing local ingredients to practicing sustainability.

The Alaskan wilderness is more than just a backdrop; it’s integral to Denali Brewing Company’s identity. As Sassan explains, “We love the wilderness, and without it, we would not be brewing here. The reason we are here is first the place, then the passion for the craft.”

Using local ingredients like chaga mushrooms, birch syrup, berries and spruce tips, the natural environment shapes their beers’ flavors and character. Sassan’s experiences living off the grid and guiding expeditions inspire the company’s beer names and community initiatives.

The Mossanens’ commitment to sustainability is evident through initiatives like Talkeetna’s largest solar array, robust recycling programs and advanced waste treatment systems. By supporting local causes and events, they foster a strong community spirit. Reflecting on the growth of Alaska’s craft beer scene since 2009, Sassan highlights a vibrant community of over 50 breweries, with Denali Brewing Company leading in creativity and sustainability.

Come along as we journey through Alaska’s wilderness with Sassan Mossanen, discovering the stories behind Denali Brewing Company’s exceptional brews and experiencing the synergy of craft beer, community and Alaska’s breathtaking wilderness.

Tiffany Herrington Can you share the story behind the founding of Denali Brewing Company? How does the Alaskan wilderness influence your brewing philosophy and the beers you create?

Sassan Mossanen The Alaskan wilderness has everything to do with it. My wife (and company cofounder) Kristy and I moved up to Alaska in 1996 to live in the roadless area north of Talkeetna – “up the tracks” – and work as experiential education instructors teaching multi-week mountaineering courses. This eventually led to working as a guide in the Alaska Range and climbing on Denali. Brewing in Alaska requires grit, perseverance, ingenuity and a passion for the craft. We love the wilderness, and without it we would not be brewing here. The reason we are here is first the place, then the passion for the craft. There are far easier places to brew, but it’s not worth it if you don’t first love the place.

TH How do you incorporate local ingredients into your brewing process? SM Too many to list! Kristy and I are farmers, gatherers and naturalists. It comes naturally to us to use the terroir of the region: chaga, birch syrup, highbush cranberries, blueberries, currants, cloudberries, rose hips, rose petals, devil’s club, wild ginger, spruce tips, salmon, oyster shells, kelp, Kachemak Bay sea salt, etc.

TH What is your personal connection to the outdoors? 

SM Outside of my family, it’s everything. From 1992 to 2003, I averaged about 200 days a year in the field, either on personal trips or guiding. For most of that time, when I wasn’t living out of a tent, I was living 14 miles off the road north of Talkeetna with Kristy in the cabin we built. I am a defender of wilderness and feel at home in the mountains, rivers and woods. With three kids, every free moment is spent at our cabin north of Talkeetna or on some adventure. Arguably, the things we do as a family would be considered extreme by most people’s standards, but our three daughters are incredibly capable in the great outdoors.

TH What drew you to Alaska?
SM I am not a native Alaskan, but I live on their lands and am grateful for their tolerance of my presence. Denali and the desire to be around it drew me here, along with building a home with Kristy in the woods and having a job doing what I loved. Back then, it was climbing; now, it’s brewing and distilling.

TH What was the inspiration for the fishing theme on the Twister Creek IPA label?
SM Twister Creek is the creek you cross right as you come down the hill into town. My family and I make an annual pilgrimage to the Copper River to dipnet and catch our annual salmon (harvest) to feed us. Other than that, I don’t really fish too much. I love to eat salmon, and it’s what our kids were raised on. Otherwise, I’d be just as happy sitting by the river watching it go by.

TH Do you have any other beers that were inspired by the Alaskan wilderness or Denali itself?
SM To a large extent, they all are. Denali is not just a name; it’s a mountain that I am familiar with and a big reason why we came to Talkeetna. Most of the other beers are based on something local. For example, Chuli Stout is named after the Chulitna River, and Single Engine Red is about the pilots who fly us to the mountain. Mother Ale refers to Mother Earth. Many of the one-off beers we make are focused on the sponsorship of rides or races, as we all ski, ride bikes and raft.

TH Is Denali Brewing Company involved in any initiatives that promote sustainability and environmental stewardship in Alaska?

SM Yes, too many to list! It would be great to give you a tour. I believe we have the largest solar array in town, a five-star energy audit, a recycling program, a waste oil burner, a composting program, a greenhouse feeding back into the tasting room, and our waste treatment is done internally; we are not on a municipal system, which is a huge deal! We sponsor the Susitna River Coalition, Denali Education Center, Denali Arts Council, and the American Lung Association, among others.

TH Are there any local events or festivals focused on outdoor activities that you sponsor or participate in?
SM We sponsor and participate in the TRIO Fat Tire World Championship, Oosik Classic Ski Race, Fireweed 200, Bun to Bun Run, Clean Air Challenge, Idita Sport, and Denali Ultra Marathon.

TH Do you have any future plans or projects that might appeal to our readers who are passionate about the Alaskan wilderness and outdoor activities?

SM My family and I are hoping to climb and ski Mount Sanford in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. The Copper River Basin and surrounding mountains are the places we most often gravitate toward when we have a chance to range further than Denali and our own backyard. My daughter Maya is about to start a 16-day trip with some of her college friends, traveling from the McLaren River off the Denali Highway back to Talkeetna. She has also worked at the brewery. I am personally super inspired by (Alaskan ultra-endurance cyclist) Lael Wilcox and hope to bike as many of the roads in Alaska as possible. I am not the incredible athlete that she is, but I hope to plug away at it over many years to come.

TH How has the craft beer scene evolved in Alaska since you opened in 2009?
SM We were license number 18, and now there are over 52 breweries in the state. I think this is fantastic. I believe every town should have a brewer, baker, butcher and building supply store. Alaska is known for making some of the highest-quality beer in the U.S. I’m proud to be among such great company. In this transition, there have been many ebbs and flows of new styles and innovations in the brewing world that have kept beer relevant and still the people’s drink of choice. Denali has also led the innovation charge by adding distillation and winery production to our offerings. For us, it has been a golden era of innovation, creativity, and community building that has been an honor to be a part of.

TH Do you have any personal stories or memorable experiences involving fishing, hunting, or other outdoor activities in Alaska that you’d like to share?

SM I worked for Colby and Katlin Coombs at Alaska Mountaineering School for a short period. The summer we spent on Denali was, outside of what I do now, the best job I ever had. I will always be grateful to them for the job, friendship and great memories. I also cherish the time spent dip-netting with my family on the Copper River. When Kristy was six months pregnant with Maya, she was catching fish so fast that I had to put my net down and just support her in gilling and stringing our fish. We lived for almost 10 years “up the tracks” from Talkeetna. The time we spent living out in the woods, building our home and guiding was a succession of many dreams coming true. ASJ

Editor’s note: Like Denali Brewing Company at facebook.com/Denalibrewing. Tiffany Herrington is a Seattle-based writer.