Five Stars In The Bush: A Revamped Lodge Creates A Nushagak Fishing Dream Destination

The following appears in the December issue of Alaska Sporting Journal:

BY TIFFANY HERRINGTON

For many anglers, the perfect gift doesn’t come wrapped in paper; it comes with a plane ticket north, the promise of cold water and the tug of a salmon on the line. In Alaska’s Bristol Bay region, where the Nushagak River winds through tundra and spruce before spilling into the sea, one lodge turns that gift into something unforgettable.

Nushagak River Adventures, known by its guests simply as “Fish the Nush,” has become a name synonymous with both adventure and comfort. It’s a rare blend of wild remoteness and refined hospitality. Its transformation from a collapsing camp into what guests now call “five-star in the bush” is the story of vision, perseverance and the people who have built their lives around the river.

A RIVER, A REBUILD, A VISION

Lodge owner Pete von Jess first arrived in Alaska in 2010, drawn north by the same curiosity that lures thousands of anglers every summer.

“We started fishing the Kenai,” he recalls, “but after a few seasons the crowds and the lack of etiquette made the experience less enjoyable. My buddy and I started looking for something different – someplace quieter, wilder.”

Their search led them west to Bristol Bay and the Nushagak River, a place famed for its immense salmon runs and its distance from civilization.

“The Nushagak had everything we wanted – more fish, less pressure and the kind of raw, wild Alaska we’d hoped to find,” he says.

At that time, Nushagak River Adventures was a modest but beloved operation. Locals nicknamed it “the plywood palace” – sturdier than the tent camps scattered along the river but far from luxurious. Pete and his friend fished there for three summers, forming friendships with the guides and staff. Then came a phone call that changed everything.

“In the fall of 2016, one of the guides called to tell me the camp was going into bankruptcy,” Pete says. “The staff wasn’t getting paid. I realized the only way to help them was to buy the lodge out of bankruptcy court.”

Within months, he became the new owner. What he’d taken on wasn’t just a struggling business; it was a total rebuild in one of the most logistically challenging corners of the continent. “It was overwhelming,” he admits. “Where do you start? You’re in a remote location with limited materials, no roads and a short building season. But the answer was: just start. One bite at a time.”

REBUILDING THE DREAM

Pete partnered with his brother-in-law, who was nearing retirement and ready for one last big project. Together, they began the work. In 2017, they cleared half the property, removing unsafe structures and hauling out debris by barge.

“We shipped three massive barge loads of trash to Dillingham’s landfill,” Pete recalls. “And then we started building.”

That first summer saw the completion of five new guest cabins. By fall, the old two-story lodge was gone and two more cabins had risen in its place. The process continued over four years, with every nail, beam and walkway carefully planned to withstand Alaska’s extremes.

“The proudest moment came when we hosted some European clients,” Pete says. “They told us, ‘You’re five-star in the bush.’ That’s when I knew we’d achieved what we set out to do.”

Today, guests arrive to find a cluster of cozy, insulated cabins tucked along the riverbank. Hot showers, comfortable beds and hearty breakfasts await each morning before the boats push off. Dinners – they are crafted by chef Chris Lee, a veteran of fine-dining kitchens and private lodges – are served in a communal dining room that feels equal parts wilderness outpost and boutique retreat.

“At the heart of every client’s desire is comfort,” Pete says. “Luxury might be a tall order in the bush, but there’s no reason anyone should be miserable on a fishing vacation.”

It’s that philosophy – simple but deeply intentional – that has earned the lodge an impressive 65-percent return rate.

THE HEART OF HOSPITALITY

Behind the smooth operation is a small, tight-knit team that has turned this remote lodge into something personal. Karen Butler, who oversees communications and guest relations, says the focus is always on genuine care.

“We try to anticipate guests’ needs before they even arrive,” she explains. “It’s the small things, [like] remembering someone’s favorite wine, having extra layers ready when the weather turns. We want every person to feel like part of the family.”

That attention to detail extends to the kitchen. Chef Lee, who joined the lodge in 2018 after decades in the restaurant world, relishes the creative challenge of cooking gourmet meals hundreds of miles from the nearest road system.

“The logistics are mind-boggling,” he says with a laugh. “Every ingredient has to be planned weeks in advance. Food arrives by plane or barge, and weather can change everything. You learn to have a backup for your backup.”

Despite the challenges, Lee takes pride in delivering what most guests never expect to find in such a remote place.

“It always amazes people when we bring out something like house-made ice cream,” he says. “That’s the fun part – going the extra mile.”

Karen agrees: “Chris’s meals rival what you’d find in a five-star hotel. Cuisine is key to the world-class experience our guests have here.”

GUIDES, GUESTS AND THE RIVER THAT CONNECTS THEM
While the lodge provides comfort for guests, it’s the river that delivers the magic. Few people know that better than Will Stolski, one of Nushagak River Adventures’ longtime guides.

“I was born into a fishing family,” he says. “My dad’s a guide too. I started guiding on the Kenai in my early 20s and came to the Nush a few years later. I’ve been with Fish the Nush ever since.”

For Will, the draw isn’t just the fishing; it’s the people.

“We’ve got an incredible team here, and I love spending time with our guests,” he says. “Many of them come back year after year, and you really get to know them. You become part of their story.”

He recalls one guest in particular – an elderly angler from Germany named Willi who traveled alone each summer to chase silver salmon.

“He was in his late 80s,” Will says, smiling. “Every year, he made the journey across the world just to fish the Nush. I guided him for years. Even though his health keeps him from coming now, we still keep in touch. I hope when I’m his age I’m still fishing in Alaska.”

Stories like Willi’s capture what makes the Nushagak experience special: It’s not just about catching fish; it’s about connection, perseverance and joy.

“When choosing a lodge in Alaska, there’s a lot to consider,” Will says. “But here, we have it all – world-class fishing, excellent lodging and food, and a staff that truly cares. There’s a reason so many guests return.”

This past season, the lodge expanded its offerings to include fly-out trips for grayling, trout and char, adding diversity to its already renowned salmon fishery.

“It’s an amazing way to see more of Bristol Bay,” Will says. “Every flight reminds you how vast and untouched this place still is.”

A MISSION BEYOND FISHING

Pete von Jess’s vision for Nushagak River Adventures extends beyond hospitality. As a retired U.S. Army colonel and Green Beret, he brings a sense of service to everything he does. That commitment led to the creation of Warrior Sportsmen Inc., a nonprofit dedicated to helping veterans heal through outdoor experiences.

“I started sponsoring wounded veterans even before I bought the lodge,” he says. “After I acquired it, we made it part of our mission.”

The program hosted combat-injured marines and later evolved to support U.S. Army Special Forces soldiers. In 2023, the organization merged with the Green Beret Foundation, expanding its reach.

“Never leave a fallen comrade behind is one of our values,” Pete says. “The corollary is to offer assistance when needed.”

That same principle of stewardship applies to the river itself. In 2019, the lodge launched its 40-Inch Club, recognizing anglers who release trophy salmon over 40 inches back into the water.

“For that act of good sportsmanship, they get their name on our 40-inch wall and a pewter salmon pin,” Pete explains. “It’s our way of encouraging conservation and honoring the fish that make this place special.”

He’s candid about his concerns for the fishery.

“We have to stay focused on protecting the kings,” he adds. “The [Alaska] Department of Fish and Game often prioritizes sockeye harvests, but we can’t lose sight of the species of concern. Our guests understand that; they care about the resource.”

GIVING THE GIFT OF THE NUSHAGAK

For many who come to Nushagak River Adventures, the experience begins as a bucket-list trip and ends as something deeper. It’s not just about catching limits; it’s about rediscovering simplicity, reconnecting with nature and stepping out of the noise of daily life.

“There might not be a better gift than a fishing or hunting trip, especially to Alaska,” Pete says. “It gets you out into nature, it’s relaxing and it keeps you grounded.”

Each summer, as floatplanes buzz overhead and boats drift downriver in the midnight sun, guests find themselves part of a rhythm older than time. Salmon surge upriver in astonishing numbers, bald eagles patrol the banks and the smell of woodsmoke mingles with grilled salmon in the evening air. When guests depart, Pete hopes they take more than photos.

“I want them to feel they got far more value than what they paid for,” he says. “That they remember the great hospitality and the people who made it happen.”

And they do. Guests often write back months later, recounting their favorite meals, a guide’s encouragement or the moment they landed the fish of a lifetime. For many, it becomes a tradition of a return to the Nush each year – sometimes with family, sometimes with friends – and always with gratitude.

As the holidays approach and anglers everywhere dream of next summer’s waters, a trip to the Nushagak River may be the most meaningful holiday gift one could give. It’s a reminder of what truly matters: adventure, connection and time spent in the wild with people who care deeply about the experience they create.

In Pete von Jess’s words, “Genuine hospitality at every turn is our objective.” It’s a simple statement, but like the river itself, it runs deep. ASJ

Editor’s note: Looking for a holiday gift that won’t be forgotten? Treat the angler in your life to an Alaska fishing adventure on the Nushagak River. Visit fishthenush.com or call (907) 232-3474 to learn more. Tiffany Herrington is a Seattle-based writer.