When you’re in the woods and you need a place to go, you can at least go comfortably with this wilderness lifehack!
Lots of you have probably been putting garbage bags in buckets for this kind of thing (or just been using buckets, you savages), but why not add a little extra luxury for a few added dollars, and put a pool noodle seat on it? You can even hang the paper roll from the handle.
One thing I might add, if I were doing this– maybe consider reinforcing the pool noodle with some duct tape if you’re going to use it for more than one trip. You don’t need an unexpected bucket-butt meeting.
Please remember to pack your lysol and hand sanitizer. For everyone’s sake.
Sources: Sam Morstan, The King of Random Facebook,
If you’re into rappeling or knot tying for fun or practical survival, have a look at this Bachmann knot. You’re going to need it if you’re going to encounter climbing up with a wet rope.
The staff from ITsTactical shared some insights on this important to know Bachman knot. So here’s their excerpt:
On today’s Knot of the Week I’ll be covering the Bachmann Knot, a relative of the Prusik Knot that can be utilized as an autoblock or friction hitch. The biggest differences between the Bachman and the Prusik Knot lies in its usage of a carabiner. Additionally, unlike the omni-directional Prusik Knot, the Bachmann is uni-directional, meaning it can only be loaded from one direction and that’s down.
It’s advisable to use a locking carabiner for the Bachmann, considering you’ll be grabbing it to move the hitch. Just make sure it’s locked by screwing down so you don’t screw up. That’s my mnemonic device to remember to have the gate on the carabiner screw in a downward direction, so that if gravity decides to stick its nose in your business, it will carry it further into the closed position and not open it.
Using a carabiner with the Bachmann Knot allows your autoblock/friction hitch to move much easier, especially when wearing gloves. The carabiner gives you a dedicated spot to hold during ascending as well. The Bachmann is also beneficial around wet ropes and in icy conditions.
As you’ll see in the video below, make sure not to clip the Double Fisherman’s Knot section of your loop in when you’re connecting to your harness.
Hey guys, welcome to the Knot of the week; today I want to show you the Bachmann knot, which is a great alternative to the Prusik loop, when you’re around wet or icy ropes.
Alright guys, so you’re going to need a couple of things to start off with to tie the Bachmann knot. One is a locking carabiner. I definitely prefer a locking carabiner on this, it’s actually used in the system to slide the Bachmann knot up and down the line. So what we have simulated here is your main climbing line, and I’ll show you kind of how this works on the line, as an auto block. So if you’re familiar with the Prusik, we’ve been over that before, so the Pcarabinerusik is an auto-blocker or a friction-hitch that allows you to move on the rope, whether you’re ascending the rope or using it as an auto-block, which is to arrest your fall in case of a slip while you’re rapelling; that’s what it’s for.
So the Bachmann knot is very similar to this, but the main difference between the Prusik and the Bachmann is that it’s Unidirectional– the Prusik loop is omni-directional, meaning that it provies friction whether you’re pulling up on the line, or down on the line. With the Bachmann knot, as you’ll see in a second, it’s unidirectional, and it only provides friction when it’s down-loaded.
So the first step is creating a Prusik loop, and if you’re not familiar with a Prusik loop, it’s simply just a double-fisherman’s knot that’s been tied to create a loop in the line. I typically like about a six-food length of line for me personally, that’s gonna vary depending on your size and things like that. So, the first step is to kind of off-set the barrel knot or the double-fisherman’s knot in the line. So, if you were going to take it just like this, meaning that one side was your barrel knot and one side is the loop, it’s not going to line up correctly because you’re gonna be attaching this into your climbing harness, so I like to off-set this a little bit, at least something like that, maybe about a foot or so. Then what you’re going to do is start by hooking the line, so you’ll form a ‘bite’, again, this is what the other side looks like, this is what this side looks like. You form a bite, then you hook this into the carabiner.
And the way we’re going to be using this, I’m going to position this so that I’m going to be down-loading or pulling down on the line in this direction, so. My standard schpiel on carabiners is screw down so you don’t screw up, so when you’re using a locking carabiner, the gravity –if it were to manipulate the actual locking mechanism– would carry it down, not up. Thus unlocking the carabiner. So hopefully that makes sense.
Again, we’re gonna have this open for now, we’re going to take that bite, slip it into the carabiner, just like so, and you’re going to align the carabiner parallel with the line that you’re tying onto, and you’re going to start wrapping. So that first wrap is now going to come inside the carabiner -I’ll move that out of the way in just a second here- just like this. So into the carabiner, around the carabiner for the first wrap. You’re gonna go fairly tight with this, but you don’t have to get crazy with it, because it is a friction hitch and it will tighten up for you. again, next line wraps around and through the carabiner, again around, through the carabiner, and we’ll do one more pass here, around, through the carabiner. So now I have a total of about four wraps in the line, and as you’re providing tension on the line, which will come from it being attached to your harness, again this end would be hooked into your harness here, so again that barrel knot with the double-fisherman’s knot is not in line with where that would be attached to your harness, that’s why I was mentioning the offset in the beginning.
So as the friction is being applied, this line won’t move this way, but if friction were being applied this way, it would turn into a mess, so therefore it’s only good when it’s being down-loaded, so to speak. Hopefully you understand what I mean by that term. So, always remember to lock your carabiner, that’s a very important step, and then you’ll be able to use this for a grip, so it can be great for ascending situations, especially when you’re wearing gloves, or -as I mentioned- with an icy or wet rope, so that you’re actually pulling up on the rope, you can actually manipulate this with the carabiner. So, again, if I’m ascending -meaning pushing that line up- and then getting tension from my harness, that’s really how you would start manipulating that Bachmann knot.
So hopefully you can see this is an interesting alternative to the Prusik, just remember that again, this is unidirectional, not omni-directional.
Stay tuned for a new knot of the week every Tuesday, and if you’re enjoying what we’re doing here on our knot of the week series, please consider joining the crew leader membership linked below in the description. Thanks for watching.
Bears and humans both love fishing. If you are fishing a good spot in bear country, you may be sharing the water. However the Alaskan anglers in this video decided to take matters in their own hands and chase a bear away to have the spot to themselves.
The group took matters it into their own hands after a bear got too close. They took off after the bear to force it into the water. Apparently bears are taking over this area looking for food and the group decided to risk their safety to protect the town and their fishing area.
Many hunters have talked about what to carry for bear defense while out in the woods. Here are some of that conversation on 1911forum for a handgun.
BPHORSEGUY: There have been increasing small bear sightings in my and my dogs hiking area. I am considering carry a .45ACP instead of my 9mm and solids instead of HP.
magazineman: I’d guess .44 mag or better. + running shoes. But for your purposes I’d see what handgun bear hunters use. I’d be surprised if 9mm or .45 were on the menu for that job. Big revolvers are probably the preferred item.
EvolutionArmory: At the minimum, you want a 10mm if you are carrying an autoloader. I would feel under gunned with one though. You are probably best off with a .44 magnum or .454 Casull wheel gun. Think magnum for bear.
Kosh75287: I’m guessing that buying a .40+ caliber revolver is not on your financial horizon. If you reload, I’d consider using a 250 grain RNFP over a maximum load of Herco or Blue Dot. You might also look into a conversion kit for your .45 Auto to enable it to shoot .45 Super, and work up a load that drives a 230 gr. FMJRN as fast as possible.
Here’s the sentiment from Reddit audience if you’re toting an AR or other firearms:
In_Vitam_Sola: An M203 would be a handy attachment.
the5thpixel: Burrs do not go down easily. Aim for the head.
Malrak: GL trying to get a 5.56 through a Bear’s skull, all while its moving and most likely charging you at 30 mph
NaggerGuy: Bear spray
84xcab: And a rape whistle
Malrak: 30 rounds of 5.56 would probably kill a bear…the question being would you be able to stop him before he had a chance to rush you and maim you.
If it were my choice I’d rather have an AR-15 in 458 SOCOM or 50 Beowulf.
AR-15 aside, I’d prefer something like a Benelli M4 with Magnum Slugs, AR-10, M1A, SCAR-H or other 308 Semi Auto.
Best option would be M107 or a M2 50 BMG Conversion both with supporting crew.
Wadsworth34: Maybe an AR10. Depends on the size of the bear. .556/.223 wouldn’t do jack shit to a big ass bear. Bear spray or a shotgun with hollow point slugs.
SirEDCaLot: A heavy penetrating round like the M855 is IMHO the most effective. It will be better able to punch through the layers of bear and hit vital organs on the inside.
AtheistInfantry: As a life long Alaskan that has seen these animals up close on numerous occasions I would rather have bear spray or a Mossberg 500 with Brenneke Black Magic Magnums.
Unless you get lucky and make a CNS hit it’s going to run off or eat you(or both) before it bleeds out. Oh, and there’s a whole bunch of hide, muscle and fat between your bullet and the spine.
Tarnsman4Life: I would say depends on the type of bear. 357 Mag or 10MM should be fine for black bear. Anything larger than a black bear I would not go smaller than 44 magnum.
In a perfect world I would have a Semi-Auto shotgun loaded with slugs too.
What are your thoughts on this?, leave us a comment below.
There are many written articles on what to have in your survival supplies. But, the big three that you need to provide are food, water and shelter. Yes, it would be nice to have all the fancy tools to play with. The primary three needs are what will help you to focus on to help you survive. The following is a quick down and dirty list that you should have in your survival kit or bug out bag.
TOOL FOR CUTTING OR CHOPPING –
Used for cooking, warmth and shelter.
MULTI-PURPOSE TOOL –
Is like a McGyver gadget with all tools in it.
WATER PURIFICATION OR FILTRATION
FIRE STARTER –
Get a permanent match, flint or magnesium rod.
DUCT TAPE –
For practical use for shelter, crafting, repairing, etc..
FIRST AID AND EMERGENCY KIT –
Ideally first aid kit be placed inside a water proof container.
PARA-CORD OR ROPE –
Very durable and can be used for many things.
FISHING GEAR –
Nice to have a rod and reel. But, not necessary, all you need are lures, fish eggs and fishing line.
Staying dry, keeping warm or make into a container to carry items.
FLASHLIGHT AND EXTRA BATTERIES –
Though, its nice to have tactical lights. It’s better to have a reliable compact LED flashlight that you can recharge by turning the handle. Perfect for emergency use to save battery power.
This may be one of the easiest way to start a fire. The guy from Stephenson Prepper uses cotton ball, petrolium jelly and a flint with a scraper. You don’t need to have the same bracelet as with flint/scraper as shown in the video.
[Speaker]: Today Im’ma be showing you a little video how petrolium jelly and a cotton ball can make a good fire. It actually lasts about four minutes actually burning. And this is how you can store ’em, You go ahead and pre-mix ’em, keep ’em in a ziplock bag, makes ’em water-tight.
I’m gonna start with my bracelet today. You can get these bracelets on Amazon. Just look up ‘Bracelet with Flint’, and you should find the link.
This is what it looks like. You gotta take it, put it down through the hole to get it. Much easier to start it. You can use a little washer that’s connected on the end to actually start it.
You can see I’ve done a couple things with it, where it’s kinda shiny on the side, and the paint’s still on this side. You do have to get the paint off of it by striking it multiple times. Hopefully I’ve got enough paint off it on this side to make it work.
And there you go. That’s how you can get a fire started. Let me take this down.
There are many ways to find true north if you get disoriented while hiking. Though it may sound easy to walk in a straight line, it’s actually simple to get off-course. There are many ways to getting back on track, that is back to true north. Here are some simple methods, have a look below:
First method is to get a needle and cork, or something to make the needle float. Rub the needle on your clothes to magnetize it and then stick the needle through the cork or rest it on top of a leaf that floats, and place it in a puddle or cup of water. The needle will turn and point to true north.
Another way to find direction without a compass requires the use of sticks. There are two ways to do this, one way during the day and one way at night. The first way, which you do during the day, is to put a stick in the ground so that it is sticking vertically up, and mark where the shadow is with a pebble or a rock. Wait 10-15 minutes, then mark where the shadow has moved. The original shadow indicates west and the direction the shadow moves is east.
The second way to get yourself directionally aligned can only be done at night. Get two large sticks, one bigger than the other. Stick the shorter one in the ground, and then just beyond it, jam the taller stick into the ground. Then bend over behind the smaller stick, and in your mind, make a line that goes from the top of the two sticks to a star in the sky. Watch the star for several minutes and the stars will change location (they aren’t moving, the Earth is, of course). If the star moves up that means you are facing east; down is west; if it moves right, then you’re facing south and finally, if it moves left, that is north.
What other ways have you used to get back on track?